Cambodia: Tonle Sap Lake – Floating Village
Less than a one-hour drive south from Siem Reap is Tonle Sap Lake – the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia – and it provides a home and a livelihood for the three million Cambodian people who live in floating villages on the lake.
This remarkable lake undertakes a dramatic transformation between May to October (the wet season) when flooding fills the lake with water from The Mekong River and it swells to an area of 16,000 sq/km and five times its dry season size.
The flooded lake provides a fertile breeding ground for fish which is one of the most productive freshwater fisheries in the world. The fish caught here provides more than two-thirds of Cambodia’s protein consumption.
During the dry season between November and April the lake’s waters recede and expose wide areas of muddy flats and the people of the floating villages will then move their floating homes and shops and animal housings closer to the shoreline.
MY VISIT TO THE FLOATING VILLAGE ON TONLE SAP LAKE
My visit to the floating village on Tonle Sap Lake was in April, so at the end of the dry season.
We asked our tuktuk driver, who we’d enjoyed the company of for the past three days of sightseeing around Angkor Wat and Angkor Archaeological Park to take us on a half day trip to a floating village.
Luckily for us, he said his cousin had a small boat, and he could arrange a private tour.
Now, if you’ve done any research at all on the floating villages at Tonle Sap Lake then you might have read warnings about local scams and overcharging and begging etc etc.
But, as I mentioned, we’d been with our driver for a few days and we were happy to take up his recommendations.
So, he phoned his cousin, and the cost he quoted to take us on a half day trip out to the lake and on his cousin’s boat seemed entirely reasonable to us. We didn’t need to compare prices with anywhere else or to try to bargain.
It’s important to remember that tourism is important to the local people.
Travel and experiencing a glimpse into other people’s lives is important to us.
So, I feel if you’re quoted a reasonable price for a local service and you want to accept it, I see nothing wrong.
But if you are not sure what seems reasonable, I might suggest you talk to your hotel about local tours and prices, and what you should expect to pay. I would also suggest you look at tours sold by (affiliate link) KLOOK.
TONLE SAP LAKE – FLOATING VILLAGE
We reached the Tonle Sap Lake and our driver located his cousin and his boat.
Introductions were made to the cousin who would be our captain and a couple of his deck hands and we all set off down a canal of yellow/brown muddy water in the direction of the vast freshwater lake.
We are told that in Khmer the word ‘Tonle’ means freshwater and ‘Sap’ means lake.
THE BACKPACKING HUSBAND GETS TO DRIVE THE BOAT!
Along the way, the backpacking husband got to drive the boat – he’s actually a qualified boat captain – although on this occasion I don’t think that mattered!
Can you see in the photo how the accelerator peddle is a chain and string!
Onboard we were treated like new friends and offered refreshments – bottled cold water – bottles of local beer – cigarettes if we wanted to smoke – and some strips of jerky to chew on that our driver had bought from a woman selling the spicy tasting dried meat from a passing canoe!
It was all great fun and we got on well with our captain and his crew.
THE FLOATING VILLAGES OF TONLE SAP LAKE
There are three different floating villages on Tonle Sap Lake.
They are known as: Chong Kneas, Kompong Phluk, and Kompong Khelang.
They each offer tourists the opportunity to observe traditional fishing methods, visit local markets, and learn about the rich cultural heritage of the communities living on the lake.
I was amazed to see children happily floating around in their one-person plastic tub boats, following tourists while carrying pet snakes aloft, asking for ‘one dollar!’ to take a photo.
I was fascinated to see floating wooden houses with dogs sitting on porches.
There were floating animal crates and chickens in pens attached to floating houses.
There were floating grocery shops and shops of every kind.
Men in small boats, fishing with nets.
I saw a woman in a canoe with a large basket of white eggs.
Our boat driver bought some eggs from her and I learned they were crocodile eggs!
Later, in the middle of the lake, we got off the boat onto a large floating raft.
We saw a few (captive) crocodiles wallowing in muddy water, we bought a beer and then took some time to look around us at the watery world of Tonle Sap Lake, and the floating villages and all the lake-dwelling people going about their daily business.
Visiting the floating village was a fascinating and a wonderfully immersive experience.
I would absolutely recommend this trip to you, if you are looking for a half day trip out of Siem Reap, and some respite from temple bagging!
I particularly enjoyed being on a private trip with local people and not on one of the larger group tour trips on the bigger boats that we saw on the lake.
There are lots of different trips on offer to take you to the floating villages on Tonle Sap Lake.
So be sure to book the one that suits you best.
And take some one dollar bills with you for the local children with the photogenic snakes!
THE BEST TIME TO VISIT CAMBODIA
The best time to visit the floating villages on Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia is typically during the dry season, which runs from November to April.
Daytime temperatures at this time of year are usually around 25°C to 30°C (77°F to 86°F).
My visit to the floating village was at the beginning of April. During this time, water levels are lower, making it easier for boats and tours to navigate through the villages and explore the surroundings.
Additionally, the weather tends to be more pleasant with less rainfall, allowing for a more enjoyable experience.
However, it’s also worth noting that visiting during the wet season can provide a different perspective as water levels rise, offering a unique insight into the lifestyle of the people living in these floating communities.
So, the best time to visit, depends on what kind of experience you’re seeking.
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