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An Insider’s TRAVEL Guide to New Orleans

A travel guide to New Orleans – curated by a young musician based out of New Orleans – whom I met by chance as we travelled together on a Greyhound Bus from Miami is a NOLA first time visitor’s dream itinerary!

We struck up a conversation and I asked him where I should go in New Orleans as a first time visitor.

He recommended a list of places he said could offer the ultimate in experiences and best of New Orleans.

I immediately grabbed my notebook to jot down his tips and recommendations.

It turned out to be a list of the most amazing places and best experiences to have in New Orleans.

Without his expert advice I might not have found the very best way to spend my four nights in N’Awlins.

This is my insider’s itinerary and a special travel guide to New Orleans and I’m happy to share with you!

Travel with me to NOLA – New Orleans, LouisiAna, USA!

TABLE OF CONTENTS

• An Insider’s TRAVEL Guide to New Orleans
• THE FRENCH QUARTER
• WHERE TO STAY IN THE FRENCH QUARTER
• BOURBON STREET
• JACKSON SQUARE
• FRENCHMEN STREET
• SNUG HARBOUR JAZZ CLUB
• Jazz, Blues, Oyster Bars, and Voodoo!
• FRENCH MARKET
• Crawfish Boil at ‘The Leaf’
• Classic Louisiana Bayou Crawfish Boil
• IRENE’S PLACE
• THE BEST EXPERIENCES IN NEW ORLEANS

NEW ORLEANS – JAZZ, BLUES, OYSTER BARS, AND VOODOO!

THE FRENCH QUARTER

Armed with our specially curated insider’s itinerary and travel guide to New Orleans as provided to us by our young musician friend from the Greyhound Bus (you can read more about that fabulous road trip adventure HERE) we were staying for four nights in the gorgeous Chateau Hotel on Chartres Street in the French Quarter.

The French Quarter, or Vieux Carré, is the oldest neighbourhood in New Orleans and one of the most iconic and historic neighbourhoods in New Orleans.

Founded in 1718 by Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville, it is the site of the original settlement of the city.

Despite its name – much of the present architecture in the French Quarter dates back to the Spanish colonial period (1762–1803) – although, tragically, fires in 1788 and 1794 destroyed many of the French-style buildings.

Its iron balconies, colourful stucco walls, and courtyards, picturesque streets and historic charms have made it a popular filming location for movies and TV shows including A Streetcar Named Desire and Interview with the Vampire.

As a designated historic district, The French Quarter also has a special and unique legal status, which helps to preserve its character, and this means that strict regulations ensure its distinctive architecture and ambiance remain intact.

Indeed, it is the mix of the past and present The French Quarter that encapsulates the spirit of New Orleans.

The French Quarter’s location along the Mississippi River helped it become a vital port and trading hub.

Today, visitors can enjoy riverboat cruises and scenic views along the Moonwalk Promenade, near Jackson Square.

WHERE TO STAY IN THE FRENCH QUARTER

As soon as we arrived at our hotel – the beautiful Chateau Hotel on Charteris Street in The French Quarter – we were excited to check-in to our atmospheric, spooky-looking room, with its dark oak furniture and four-poster bed, and to drop off our luggage so we could lose no time in starting to explore the surrounding old neighbourhood.

You can read more about the spooky side of New Orleans – reputed to be one of the most haunted cities in the world – and what I uncovered while researching in The French Quarter for my paranormal romantic novel NOLA in my post The Haunted Secrets of The French Quarter.

We loved our choice of hotel but of course there are many fantastic places to stay in The French Quarter.

From five-star hotels with swimming pools to historic family-run guesthouses there is accomodation for all styles and budgets.

FIND YOUR PERFECT PLACE TO STAY IN THE FRENCH QUARTER USING THIS INTERACTIVE MAP

BOURBON STREET

Bourbon Street is a famous and historic street in the heart of the French Quarter.

But as it turns out – the famous Bourbon Street – was apparently named after the French royal family ‘The House of Bourbon’ rather than the backpacking husband’s favourite liquor!

Bourbon Street is a popular destination for both locals and tourists and is the focal point for many festivals including the famous Mardi Gras celebration, when the street is filled with parades, colourful costumes, and lively crowds.

Bourbon Street is known for its vibrant nightlife, lively atmosphere, mix of bars, clubs, restaurants, and shops.

It’s home to numerous eateries serving a variety of local and international cuisines and is particularly known for its Creole and Cajun dishes.

It’s a place with a unique blend of history, culture, and entertainment, making it a must-visit for exploring.

But, to be honest, Bourbon Street was a bit of a culture shock to us.

It was crazy and crowded and noisy and smelly as we strolled along Bourbon Street, mostly holding our noses against the stench of urine and vomit, trying not to stare at the scantily-clad calling out to prospective clients from shady doorways.

We did stop off for a couple of drinks in a bar and to our delight we did witness a passing ‘jazz funeral’ but we decided the action, as far as we were concerned, (and according to our inside’s travel guide for visiting New Orleans) was elsewhere.

JACKSON SQUARE

Luckily, we soon discovered the delightfully picturesque Jackson Square, just a block away in the opposite direction from Bourbon Street, with its artists and street jazz bands and its ragtag collection of colourful entertainers and tarot readers.

After freshening up back at our hotel – we went out to find Frenchmen Street – just a short walk away.

Frenchmen Street sits in one of New Orleans’ oldest neighbourhoods, the Faubourg Marigny, which dates back to the early 19th century.

Unlike the bustling and tourist heavy Bourbon Street, just a short walk away, Frenchmen Street has a reputation for being a spot where locals go to unwind.

So, it’s often regarded as a more authentic New Orleans experience.

The area was established by Creole plantation owner Bernard de Marigny who subdivided his land and turned it into a residential and commercial district.

Interestingly, Frenchmen Street gets its name not from French settlers but from six Creole men executed in the early 1800s for their opposition to the Spanish rule who were known as the Frenchmen.

Today, Frenchmen Street is often called the ‘music capital’ of New Orleans.

The street is home to legendary music venues such as The Spotted Cat Music Club, d.b.a., and Blue Nile, where you can hear everything from traditional jazz and blues to funk, reggae, and brass bands.

The sidewalks of Frenchmen Street often come alive with impromptu performances by incredibly talented street musicians, offering free, world-class entertainment and exudes an artsy, bohemian atmosphere.

Frenchmen Street also offers incredible dining options and unique cocktails:

Grab a po’boy, fresh oysters, or Creole-inspired small plates from nearby eateries like Adolfo’s (a hidden gem above the Apple Barrel Bar).

Bars on Frenchmen Street are known for serving drinks that pair perfectly with the vibrant nightlife and often with a local twist.

Frenchmen Street is a hotspot during New Orleans’ major festivals like Mardi Gras when the street buzzes with energy, featuring live music, parades, and costumed revelry.

And, Frenchmen becomes a central hub for after-party jam sessions, during the annual New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival.

We had drinks in a bar listening to a traditional washboard blues band and then following our Travel Guide to New Orleans as provided to us by the young musician.

We then went on to the famous Snug Harbour Jazz Club at 626 Frenchmen Street!

SNUG HARBOUR JAZZ CLUB

Well wow – what can I tell you about that night – our first night and our first experience of jazz and blues in New Orleans!

The music in New Orleans was everything I’d dreamed and hoped it would be and we had a truly unforgettable evening.

Snug Harbour Jazz Club is a music ‘hot spot’ and is easily located in an old and unassuming doorway between shop doors on Frenchmen Street.

We paid a cover charge and went downstairs into a small cellar called The Music Room at The Snug, where there was a small cabaret-style stage and the atmosphere was intimate and old and wonderful.

We were glad we arrived early to grab a couple of seats and a table and we ordered some drinks.

Soon the band came on and we were treated to an amazing cultural experience and live top-quality jazz and blues incorporating the sounds of gospel and soul.

It was a fabulous evening and we felt we truly experienced the true and timeless essence of New Orleans!

Jazz, Blues, Oyster Bars, and Voodoo!

The next morning we did some sightseeing and took a leisurely walk through the streets of the French Quarter, stopping to tip back our heads and admire amazingly authentic 19th-century mansions and beautifully decorated balcony apartments adored with draping greenery and flowers.

We strolled along the banks of the Mississippi River to admire the riverboats before stopping off for beignets (pronounced ‘Ben Yeah’) and coffee.

Beignets are a New Orleans signature sweet pastry made from deep-fried dough sprinkled with sugar.

Back in Jackson Square, in the lively heart of New Orleans, we joined the throngs of tourists to hear the street musicians and to see the tarot readers and fortune tellers and portraits artists who were all touting their talents and their wares.

FRENCH MARKET

Later, for lunch, just two blocks from Jackson Square at 1001 Decatur Street, we found French Market restaurant and bar and had baked their Oyster Special and their delicious Creole Char-Grilled Oysters.

I still dream about that fabulous lunch!

After our our delicious lunch of oysters, we headed back to explore Frenchmen Street by day and found enchanting and spooky-looking voodoo shops selling voodoo dolls and where a practising mambo would do a psychic reading for you!

Where the witchcraft shops were filled with candles and potions and strange ingredients for making magic spells to either enrich your life or to exact revenge on your enemies.

Feeling bewitched and compelled by the scent of a heady incense, in a shop called HEX that claims to be a witchery and actually has an ‘Altar of the Dead’ for people to leave notes to their dearly departed, I felt compelled to buy some tarot cards.

I’ve actually always been a bit curious about the tarot and I suppose my thinking was, that in buying tarot cards in the spookiest shop in New Orleans, they must be extra special and even more magical than those you might buy elsewhere.

To this day, I still consult my tarot cards for myself or for friends and I still believe that my cards – bought in that incredibly spooky shop in New Orleans – to be very special and magik!

Crawfish Boil at ‘The Leaf’

The Maple Leaf Bar on Oak Street in the ‘Uptown’ part of New Orleans was next up on our Travel Guide to New Orleans.

The Maple Leaf is a world-renowned music venue as well as hosting the best crawfish boil in town.

We were told we shouldn’t miss a ‘Crawfish Boil’ at ‘The Leaf’ as our young musician friend on the Greyhound had called it.

It sounded fantastic but I was also impressed to hear that Bruce Springsteen is often seen popping into The Leaf to ‘jam’ and that many of the bands who regularly played there were Grammy Awards winners!

We got out of our taxi on Oak Street and we were a little nervous, wondering if we’d found the right bar, as we couldn’t hear any music but it turned out that we were a little early.

So, we again paid a cover charge and we bought a drink at the bar, while curiously eyeing the long narrow trestle table covered in a plastic tablecloth placed along the middle of the adjacent room.

Soon lots of people started to arrive, buying drinks and congregating along the length of the table.

Then the musicians arrived and climbed up on stage to do a tune-up.

In no time at all the place was packed out.

Not long after there was a commotion starting at the top of the table and the feeling of something was about to happen.

Everyone had lined up to stand along the length of the table but there were no chairs and no plates and no cutlery.

I was then amazed to see a huge steaming tin bathtub full of food – the Crawfish Boil – was being tossed onto the table.

Several steaming bathtubs later and the table was totally filled with crawfish, potatoes, corn cobs, and sausages, and a feeding frenzy ensued.

If, like me – you are not quite sure what a crawfish is – well it looks and tastes something like a small lobster.

A crawfish boil is a coveted traditional southern meal and an important social event throughout Louisiana USA.

The crawfish – lots of them – are boiled in a giant pot along with potatoes and corn and garlic and sausage and then everything is literally thrown onto the table for people to eat with their hands and with absolute gusto.

Classic Louisiana Bayou Crawfish Boil Recipe

Once the seasoned water comes to a boil in a large tin bath, add the potatoes, corn, garlic, and sausage.

Cover and cook for 10 minutes. Add the crawfish, cover, and cook for 3 minutes.

Turn off the heat and allow the pot to sit, covered, for 10 minutes.

Serve to the hungry masses by tipping the meal onto a scrubbed clean wooden table. No cutlery necessary!

It was all kinds of crazy to eat standing up and with your hands but it also looked fun!

Especially after a fellow diner had seen my confused expression and kindly demonstrated the correct and the quickest way to eat the crawfish.

First, you pull off the head and discard it (on this occasion that’s onto the floor!) and then you suck on the headless body to extract the juicy stock then you quickly peel the shell and pop the crawfish meat straight into your mouth.

I can tell you it’s a sticky and messy business!

After the food frenzy was over and the mess quickly cleaned up and the floor brushed and wet mopped, while we had more drinks at the bar, the band started up and we danced the night away in true Maple Leaf style. It was fantastic.

We had booked a taxi at the bar to take us back to our hotel around 10.30 pm.

We usually like to walk around to get a great feel for places and because we enjoy walking, but to be honest, New Orleans at night especially is not the safest of places for tourists.

I would suggest that you ask your hotel to tell you the safest routes for walking in the area so you don’t end up getting lost.

It’s usually about keeping to the main roads and the busiest well-lit streets.

Also, do ask your hotel receptionist for some local taxi numbers that they would recommend to you.

IRENE’S PLACE

Irene’s Place is a highly regarded ‘secret’ little Italian/French restaurant just a short walk from our hotel at 529 Bienville Street and it was here that we finished off our wonderful stay in New Orleans.

On the outside, with a small swinging sign and modest canopy, Irene’s looks unpretentious – but don’t be fooled – it’s the hottest ticket in town.

Inside the atmosphere is of old-world decadence, the food is delicious, and the wine list is fabulous.

The restaurant opens at 5 p.m. from Tuesday to Saturday.

But do be warned that it’s so popular that’s almost impossible to get a table.

I’d recommend booking in advance and you can do so easily via Irene’s website.

We went early on spec and we were lucky to get a table.

If you arrive and find it busy, you can always choose to wait, and enjoy having a glass of wine at the bar.

THE BEST EXPERIENCES IN NEW ORLEANS

New Orleans is known as the home of jazz, blues, oyster bars, and voodoo, as well as mardi gras and cajun cuisine.

It was the fabulous recommendations given to us by a young musician during a chance meeting on a bus that led to us having a fantastic Travel Guide to New Orleans.

This personally curated list led us to places that we might not have found in the four days we were in New Orleans like Snug Harbour for legendary jazz and blues music and The Maple Leaf Bar for the experience of an authentic crawfish boil and a unique musical mix of local legends, Grammy Award winners, musical heroes, and up-and-coming talent AND our fabulous last night in NOLA dinner at Irene’s Restaurant.

We chose to stay in the French Quarter because of the old-town atmosphere and the proximity to the places we planned to experience without having to hire a car.

We found the city diverse. It really is a melting pot of culture and hedonism!

Bourbon Street was quite a shock but the rest of our New Orleans experience was just as I’d imagined if not even better.

We stayed a total of four nights in The Big Easy and made the most of our time so this was a long enough stay for us.

YOU may have other reasons to visit New Orleans: The Carnival referred to as Mardi Gras, The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival commonly known as ‘Jazz Fest’, the Voodoo Experience aka ‘Voodoo Fest’, The Essence Music Festival or the Tennessee Williams Literary Festival.

New Orleans is like nowhere else I’ve ever been.

Have you ever been to New Orleans or are you planning to go?

What do you think of this insider’s itinerary for The French Quarter?

Leave a comment and let me know!

You can find out about my book NOLA that I was researching during my visit to New Orleans and all my other bestselling romantic adventure novels – including The Backpacking Housewife series – on my Books Page.

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