MOGOSOAIA PALACE Bucharest Romania
Mogosoaia Palace has been standing for centuries just a few miles outside of Bucharest, Romania’s capital city, and yet has somehow managed to stay off the radar of many international travellers to Romania. Wandering around its walls and grounds, it feels to me like you’re exploring a time capsule, with beautiful remnants of history where the past is preserved in stone, glass, and silence, amidst old trees, lake waters, and manicured gardens.
If you’re traveling to or from Bucharest, Mogosoaia Palace is a must see on your itinerary. It is a spectacular slice of Romanian history wrapped in Brâncovenesc architecture, art, and political drama.
Like many of Romania’s castles and citadels that look like they belong in a fairy tale or a gothic novel – Mogosoaia Palace is not just a pretty building – it was born of ambition and tragedy and is now a monument to resilience, vision, and the cost of leadership.
Built between 1698 and 1702 by Constantin Brâncoveanu, one of Romania’s most influential historical figures, the palace was intended as a lavish retreat for his family. However, history took a cruel turn. In 1714, Brâncoveanu was captured by the Ottoman Empire, accused of treason, and executed along with his four sons in Constantinople.
After Brâncoveanu’s execution the palace was confiscated but it survived and was later returning to family hands and eventually became a museum. But I feel this tragic story lends an emotional depth to the site. Whether you’re a history buff, an architecture nerd, or simply someone looking to stroll around and relax in nature there’s something here for you.
So, let’s travel back in time together, to find out what makes Mogosoaia Palace more than just a beautiful photo opportunity.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
- MOGOSOAIA PALACE
- THE BRÂNCOVENESC ARCHITECTURAL STYLE
- MOGOSOAIA FROM RUIN TO REVIVAL
- THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE
- THINGS TO SEE AND DO AT MOGOSOAIA PALACE
- MOGOSOAIA PALACE TIMELINE
- GETTING THERE – PLAN YOUR TRIP
THE BRÂNCOVENESC ARCHITECTURAL STYLE
One of the most striking features of Mogosoaia Palace is its architectural style, known as Brâncovenesc. If you’ve never heard of it, don’t worry, because once you see it – you’ll wonder why it hasn’t achieved global fame as Romania’s own Renaissance.
Imagine carved stone balconies, intricate arches, and richly decorated façades, all with a subtle Eastern influence. Mogoșoaia Palace is often cited as the finest surviving example of this style and seeing it in person is a visual feast.
As I wandered through the palace’s airy galleries and arched corridors, I kept stopping to admire the detailing and the way light filtered through the carved stone. Every angle seemed designed for quiet contemplation and admiration.
MOGOSOAIA FROM RUIN TO REVIVAL
Like many old European landmarks, Mogosoaia Palace has seen its share of decline and rebirth. It encapsulates the Romanian spirit in a way that’s elegant yet understated, tragic yet hopeful. After Brâncoveanu’s execution, the palace passed through various hands and suffered damage during several historical upheavals – including the Russo Turkish wars and both World Wars.
It wasn’t until the early 20th century that the palace found a saviour in Martha Bibescu, a Romanian-French aristocrat, writer, and socialite. Married into the Bibescu family, which had acquired the estate, she turned Mogoșoaia into a centre of culture, hosting European intellectuals and royals.
Under her watchful eye, the palace was lovingly restored, and many of its decorative elements—such as frescoes and woodwork – were revived or rebuilt. Walking through its rooms today, you’ll see both original and restored elements, thoughtfully preserved to reflect the palace’s layered history.
The central hall, now used for exhibitions, still exudes aristocratic charm. And when you step out into the Italian-style gardens or down to the lake, it’s easy to imagine elegant guests strolling these grounds a century ago and feel a quiet connection to the people who had once walked these grounds: princes, poets, martyrs, and travellers.
Places like Mogosoaia Palace Bucharest Romania remind us that history is not just something you read in books – it’s something you feel in your bones when you stand in the right place.
THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE
Before we go any further though, if you’ve read my posts enthusing over the Temples of Chiang Mai in Thailand or Angkor Wat and the Archaeological Park in Cambodia, you’ll know I love the architecture and feeling of spirituality in old temples and churches. So I want to share with you my own favourite discovery amongst the many buildings that make up the Mogosoaia Palace.
That discovery is The Church of St. George (Biserica Sfântul Gheorghe) which predates the palace by more than a decade. It was built in 1688 by Prince Constantin Brâncoveanu and was decorated with frescos in 1705.
This timeline is significant as it reveals Brâncoveanu’s deep commitment to Orthodox Christianity and highlights how religious devotion often preceded and justified noble construction projects in the 17th Century.
It was common in that era, for rulers to begin major estates with the erection of a church or monastery, both as an act of piety and as a symbol of divine blessing upon their ambitions. In this way, the Church of St. George was not just a private chapel, but a spiritual cornerstone for the palace to be built.
The church is a classic example of Brâncovenesc architecture, similar to the palace but expressed on a more intimate scale. Despite its small size and its layout typical of Orthodox churches, the church feels harmonious and noble, almost like a spiritual twin to the larger residence nearby.
Inside, the church contains fabulous original frescoes from the 17th century (many of them restored) depicting scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary and the Orthodox saints, including St. George, the church’s patron.
I was in awe of the ornately carved stonework and richly decorated entrance with exquisitely detailed motifs in what felt like a serene and spiritual space. Elegant columns and arches combining Byzantine, Ottoman, and Western European influences.
Portraits featuring Constantin Brâncoveanu and his family, highlight their religious devotion – but what certainly adds emotional power to the space – is the knowledge that Brâncoveanu and his sons, canonized as martyrs by the Romanian Orthodox Church, were executed for refusing to convert to Islam.
Their portraits inside the church now serve as a form of reverence and remembrance. It’s a powerful experience to stand in a church they once prayed in and where their memory is still honoured.
The church is surrounded by a quiet, leafy churchyard, often now used for weddings, christenings, and local festivals. It provides a serene transition between the formal elegance of the palace and the spiritual gravity of the church, which still functions as an active place of worship, especially on religious holidays, providing insight into Romania’s living Orthodox traditions.
THINGS TO SEE AND DO AT MOGOSOAIA PALACE
1. The Palace Museum: The former living quarters now house the Mogosoaia Palace Museum, part of the Bucharest Museums network. Inside, you’ll find period furniture, original frescoes, decorative arts, and rotating art exhibitions. There’s an especially fascinating section on Brâncoveanu’s life, complete with documents and artifacts that bring his story vividly to life.
2. The Venetian-style Loggia: One of the most photogenic spots is the upper-floor loggia overlooking the lake. This open balcony, with its ornate columns and balustrade, is ideal for taking in the spectacular scenery.
3. Strolls and Picnics in the Grounds: I spent over an hour simply wandering the grounds. The palace is nestled within a spacious park, complete with walking paths, open lawns, and quiet groves.
5. The Art and Culture Scene: Depending on when you visit, you might find a classical music concert, art exhibition, or even a craft fair taking place. Mogosoaia Palace often hosts cultural events, especially in the warmer months. Check local listings or the palace’s official page for schedules.
MOGOSOAIA PALACE Bucharest Romania TIMELINE
St George Church was erected by Constantin Brancoveanu in 1688 and was decorated with frescos in 1705.
The Watch Tower was raised before 1702 and restored in 1930 and 1980.
The Cuhnia (Brancovan Kitchen) was built in the period 1681-1702 and its ventilation furnaces were restored in 1965.
The Palace was finished by Constantin Brancoveanu in 1702 and offered as a gift to his son Stefan, was wholly restored by Martha and George Valentin Bibescu in the period 1812 – 1927.
The Guest House was erected by Nicolae G Bibescu in 1870 on the site of the 17th Century manor and was rebuilt by architect George Matei Cantacuzino in the period 1922 – 1930.
The Ice House, in summer, before 1900 they used to store perishables under reed lumps of ice from Mogosoaia Lake, the original construction was restored in 1960.
The Glass House ordered by Nicolae G Bibescu in 1890 was restored in 2002.
GETTING THERE – PLAN YOUR TRIP
So when you’re in Bucharest I recommend you take the tour and the detour. Follow the winding roads through Romania’s countryside and when you arrive at the gates of Mogosoaia – take a breath – because you’re stepping into a time capsule!
Mogosoaia Palace is about 16 km or approximately (20-30 minutes by car or taxi) from central Bucharest. You can also reach it by public transport. Take bus 460 or a train to Buftea and then it’s just a short walk.
Location: Situated just 16 kms outside of Bucharest so it’s an easy day trip.
Guided Tours: I recommend you make a day of it and Take a Small Group Tour for a deeper understanding of the palace’s history. If you only have a half day to explore then this private half day tour takes in Mogosoaia Palace and also Snagov Monastery where Vlad The Impaler (of Dracula fame) is said to be buried.
Getting There: You can travel independently by car, bus, taxi, or get picked up and dropped off at your hotel by a private tour guide.
Photography: Capture the beauty of the palace but be mindful of any restrictions inside.
What to Bring: Comfortable shoes, especially if you want to explore the park. A camera is a must. Snacks or a picnic blanket can turn your visit into a daylong outing.
Best Time to Visit: Late springtime through to early autumn offers the most pleasant weather and blooming gardens. Autumn brings rich colours, and the palace is less crowded.
WHERE TO STAY IN BUCHAREST ROMANIA
While staying in Bucharest, I took a day trip to Mogosoaia Palace and while in Romania I mostly stayed with a friend but for my first night and for last few days, I stayed at the iconic Grand Hotel in University Square, which is in a great location and within walking distance from the Old Town.
Built in 1967, The Grand Hotel (previously it was The Intercontinental) is the tallest hotel in Bucharest and so it is also a city landmark and located right next to the National Theatre. From my room, the panoramic views of the city and those overlooking University Square and the busy Balcescu Boulevard were mesmerising.
FIND YOUR PERFECT PLACE TO STAY IN BUCHAREST USING THIS INTERACTIVE MAP
Have you explored Romania yet?
Have you been to Mogoșoaia Palace?
Let me know in the comments!
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