THAILAND: HUA HIN
Hua Hin is a popular beach resort and historical coastal town located on the Gulf of Thailand where the backpacking husband and I spent a wonderful three days in December, while taking a break from the island of Koh Tao, also in the Gulf of Thailand.
On Kao Tao we were suffering a deluge of late monsoon rain and the forecast for the week ahead was grim.
Then we discovered – just 300 km up the coastline – that Hua Hin was basking in tropical sunshine.
Known for its long sandy beaches, rich history, laid-back atmosphere, and its royal connections, this town is a favourite destination for locals and international tourists, while also remaining not-as-touristy as other coastal towns in Thailand.
For the backpacking husband and I, a few days at the luxurious (affiliate link) Intercontinental Hua Hin Resort would be our five-star Christmas gift to each other.
Travel with me to Hua Hin!
TABLE OF CONTENTS
- THAILAND: HUA HIN
- BEST THINGS TO DO IN HUA HIN
- BEACHES
- HUA HIN RAILWAY STATION
- THE ROYAL RETREAT
- THE ROYAL CONNECTION AND CONTROVERSY
- MARKETS
- ACTIVITIES
- FOOD AND WINE
- WHERE TO STAY IN HUA HIN
- BEST TIME TO VISIT HUA HIN
- HOW LONG A VISIT FOR HUA HIN
- HOW TO GET THERE
- TRAVEL TIPS FOR HUA HIN
- IS HUA HIN WORTH VISITING?
BEST THINGS TO DO IN HUA HIN
BEACHES
Hua Hin Beach is the main beach and stretches for over 8 km, offering soft sand, calm waters and various water sports so is perfect for families and those (like us) who are looking to relax.
There is also Khao Takiab Beach, just south of Hua Hin, which is a little quieter and offers a more local feel.
Warning: Unfortunately, there are known to be several types of jellyfish found in the Gulf of Thailand, that at certain times of the year due to currents and tides (particularly in rainy season) can make swimming and walking along the beach quite dangerous. Resorts will post warnings.
But, as there have also been reports of the deadly Box Jellyfish in the Gulf of Thailand, you may (like me) prefer to use the hotel swimming pool instead of swimming in the sea.
HUA HIN RAILWAY STATION
Hua Hin Railway Station is of historical significance and is one of Thailand’s oldest and most beautiful railway stations, it’s a piece of living history and a must-see for visitors.
The architecture reflects a blend of Thai and Victorian styles.
THE ROYAL RETREAT
Hua Hin is known as ‘The Royal City’ as it has been closely associated with the Thai royal family since the 1920s when King Rama VII built the Klai Kangwon Palace – translated as “Far from Worries” – as a summer retreat.
Mrigadayavan Palace: Also romantically known as the ‘Palace of Love and Hope‘ this former royal summer residence of King Rama VI is a stunning example of Thai-Victorian architecture which gives the town a regal charm.
The palace is still used by the royal family today.
THE ROYAL CONNECTION AND CONTROVERSY
Many westerners are still quite captivated by the controversy, drama, and romance as captured in the now infamous (at least it is in Thailand) 1956 Hollywood classic musical film ‘The King and I’ which was set in the royal palace in Hua Hin.
Inspired by the semi-autobiographical book “Anna and the King of Siam” by Margaret Landon, the story tells of Anna Leonowens, a widowed British schoolteacher hired to tutor the many children and wives of King Mongkut (Rama IV) of Siam (modern-day Thailand) in the 1860s.
Anna is played by actress Deborah Kerr and The King is portrayed by Yul Brynner who won an Academy Award for Best Actor.
I do remember watching and loving this movie – especially the songs – as a child of the 1960s.
The story explores the cultural clash between Anna’s Western values and the King’s Eastern traditions as well as their evolving relationship.
There have been many adaptations too in animated films, a TV series, and even a 1999 film “Anna and the King” starring Jodie Foster and Chow Yun-fat.
However, while the movie remains a beloved classic in the West, its connection to Thailand is fraught with controversy.
The original film as well as its adaptations have been banned in Thailand.
This is because the Thai’s insist it is a totally inaccurate portrayal of a beloved Thai monarch and the actual relationship between Anna and King is believed to have been less dramatic and far more formal than portrayed in The King and I.
Today, any portrayal of the Thai Royal Family in a less-than-flattering light is a sensitive issue, so it’s best if you don’t even mention The King and I movie when you are in Hua Hin!
MARKETS
The Night Market is a bustling market located in the town centre, offering a variety of street food, souvenirs, clothing, and local handicrafts.
Cicada Market is a more artsy and cultural market held on weekends, where you can find handmade crafts, art, and live performances.
ACTIVITIES
Golf: Hua Hin is known as a golfing destination, with several world-class golf courses like the Black Mountain Golf Club and Banyan Golf Club.
Water Parks: There are several family-friendly water parks in the area, such as Vana Nava Water Jungle and Black Mountain Water Park.
Kite Surfing: The consistent winds along the coast make this a prime spot for kite surfing, especially between November and April.
Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park: About an hour’s drive out of town is the national park, known for its limestone mountains, caves, and wetlands. The Phraya Nakhon Cave, with its royal pavilion, is a highlight.
Pa La-U Waterfall: Located in Kaeng Krachan National Park, this waterfall offers a refreshing escape into nature, with opportunities for hiking and wildlife spotting.
Klook.comBaan Khoc Chang Elephant Sanctuary: This elephant sanctuary is an initiative within Prachuap Khiri Khan’s Kui Buri National Park and Monsoon Valley vineyard (see below for details on the vineyard).
The Monsoon Vineyard Elephant Conservation Programme has successfully helped to rescue and rehabilitate a small herd of elephants and provides an ethical chain-free and no riding habitat for the elephants with plenty of grounds and grassland to roam around and feed on.
It’s just a 30 minute drive from town to visit the elephants and open from 11am-4pm daily.
FOOD AND WINE
Food: Hua Hin is famous for its seafood, with numerous restaurants offering freshly caught fish, crabs, prawns, and more. You can find everything from street food stalls to fine dining establishments.
Local specialties include Thai-style grilled seafood, spicy salads, and traditional desserts like mango sticky rice.
Wine: Only a 30-minute car trip from the centre of town is the Monsoon Valley Vineyard and Winery (mentioned above regarding the location of Elephant Sanctuary) founded in 2001 by a wine-loving entrepreneur with a vision to create a Thai wine culture.
You can spend a fabulous day out in the Monsoon Valley in a beautiful park setting that was once the site of an elephant corral.
Take the vineyard tour and enjoy the views while quaffing wine and a delicious meal at the onsite wine bar and bistro.
WHERE TO STAY IN HUA HIN
Accommodation: There are a wide range of accommodations from luxury resorts like the The InterContinental Hua Hin Resort (where we stayed) to budget-friendly guesthouses and boutique hotels.
I’d recommend the Intercon but you might like to search for your own perfect stay in Hua Hin using this hotel map.
BEST TIME TO VISIT HUA HIN
Hua Hin’s climate is generally mild, making it a year-round destination but the best time to visit is during the dry season which is from November to February.
My stay in mid-December was wonderful and the weather was perfect.
Find out more about weather patterns in Thailand see my post The Best and Worst Time To Visit Thailand.
HOW LONG A VISIT FOR HUA HIN
I stayed in Hua Hin on a weekend three night special break with the backpacking husband as a Christmas treat and as a respite from rain soaked Koh Tao.
If it’s your first time here I would recommend a 4-5 day visit as we probably didn’t have enough time to fully appreciate all the town has to offer without feeling rushed.
However, if you happen to have more time, then an extended stay can offer a more relaxed and in-depth experience.
Here’s a breakdown of various itineraries to help you decide:
2-3 DAYS: A quick beach and sightseeing getaway perfect for those looking for a brief relaxing break with some light sightseeing or a quick beach escape from Bangkok or just those on a busy schedule.
Activities: Relax on the beach. Visit the night market. Explore the historic railway station. Take a short trip to Khao Takiab for a beachside temple visit and views.
4-5 DAYS: A balanced experience with time for local attractions and nature which would be best for travellers who want to enjoy a more comprehensive experience, combining beaches, culture, and nature.
Activities: In addition to the short getaway activities, explore nearby attractions like the Cicada Market, Plearnwan Vintage Village, and the Venezia Hua Hin. Take a day trip to the stunning Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park or Pa La-U Waterfall. Play a round of golf or visit the local vineyard for a wine tour.
6-7 DAYS: A full immersion in relaxation, culture, and exploration that would be perfect for a more immersive stay with time to fully relax and those who want a deep dive into local culture and nature without feeling rushed.
Activities: In addition to the above, enjoy some downtime at luxury spas or take cooking classes. Explore Kaeng Krachan National Park or go on a boat tour around the nearby islands. Explore local cafes, trying various seafood restaurants, and enjoy the local laid-back nightlife. Visit the nearby royal palaces, such as Klai Kangwon Palace or Mrigadayavan Palace. Visit the Monsoon Vineyard Elephant Elephant Sanctuary.
More Than A Week: Extended Stays are perfect for long-term travellers, digital nomads, or those combining work and leisure. Also ideal for long-term relaxation or a slow travel experience.
Activities: Everything mentioned above, plus an opportunity to truly unwind and to explore this area of Thailand in depth, or work remotely while enjoying a beachside town and exploring the surrounding areas at a relaxed pace.
I recommend booking your activities in Hua Hin using Klook
HOW TO GET THERE
Hua Hin is easily accessible from many points in Thailand by car, bus, or train or plane.
If you are travelling from the Gulf of Thailand islands of Koh Samui, Koh Phangan, or Koh Tao then you’ll need to combine different modes of transportation and include a ferry as Hua Hin is located on the mainland.
You’ll take a ferry to the mainland (Chumphon or Surat Thani) and then a bus (as I did) or you can take a train to Hua Hin.
From Koh Tao I used Lomprayah which offers a combined ferry and bus ticket.
Total travel time around 6 to 8 hours including waiting times and transfers.
If you are coming from Bangkok by car (rental or private transfer) then the drive takes about 2.5 to 3 hours via Highway 35 (Thonburi-Pak Tho Road) or Highway 4 (Phetkasem Road) but traffic can be heavy during weekends and holidays.
A bus or minivan is a popular and affordable option from Bangkok and takes 3-4 hours with departures from Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai) or Ekkamai Bus Terminal or Victory Monument.
Taking the train can be a more relaxing and scenic way to travel to Hua Hin Station and will take around 4 to 5 hours from Hua Lamphong Railway Station in Bangkok.
It is possible to fly from Bangkok Suvarnabhumi or Don Mueang Airports to Hua Hin Airport but direct flights are rare.
TRAVEL TIPS FOR HUA HIN
During peak season, I highly recommend you book accommodation and activities in advance and do make sure you have adequate travel insurance.
If you are travelling in midlife, you might like to read my post on Travel Insurance for the Over 50’s.
Remember to stay hydrated and stick to bottled water for drinking and brushing your teeth.
Use sunscreen, wear hats, and seek shade during peak sun hours.
Purchasing a local SIM card with data is affordable and you can get one at the airport or any convenience store like 7-Eleven.
Thailand is a Buddhist country so be mindful of local customs and dress modestly when visiting temples (cover your shoulders and knees) and remove your shoes before entering and avoid touching Buddha statues.
IS HUA HIN WORTH VISITING?
Hua Hin is definitely worth visiting if you’re looking for a quieter travel destination as it offers a relaxing vibe and a charming alternative to Thailand’s more tourist-heavy destinations.
There are lots of accommodation options in Hua Hin from budget to high end.
Hua Hin has beautiful beaches (but do note my warning about the jellyfish) and many interesting cultural attractions and whether you’re there for just a few days as a getaway (as I was with my backpacking husband) or if you are planning a longer stay, I hope you find my post and suggested itineraries helpful as Hua Hin is a worthy destination in your trip to Thailand .
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